Is Change Always Bad?

We seem to be creatures of habit - more so than I ever would have imagined.  I find that even in our wine travels, we tend to settle into a routine and only occasionally do we stray.  I guess I shouldn't be too surprised about that.  If you ask my Partner-in-Crime, he will tell you that change is bad.  At times I have to agree and change on the wine trails has not always been good to us.

We were enjoying the drive to Billsboro on a beautiful Finger Lakes morning and, having completely zoned out, drove past their driveway.  While turning around, we saw a sign for a winery that was new to us, Lacey Magruder.  Change is bad, so we turned around and went to Billsboro but with Lacey Magruder on our minds.  After spending some time with the good people of Billsboro, we decided to live dangerously and try something new.  Off we went to Lacey Magruder!

Named for the grandparents of the owners, Lacey Magruder sits high on a hill in a beautifully restored 1830 post-and-beam barn.  The decor is eclectic and, from the deck, the view of Seneca Lake is impressive.  We had the pleasure of spending some time with Jim and Ruth Hundertmark, the husband and wife team that made their dream a reality.  Originally from Maryland but loving the Finger Lakes, Jim took a wine making course from Jim Law, winemaker extraordinaire of Linden Vineyards in Virginia, and they sold their home in Maryland and took the plunge.

They had just opened for what will be their first full season and Jim is currently offering six wines on the tasting menu - three whites, three reds.  The first is their 2009 Lot No. 1 Cuvee, an interesting blend of Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, and Riesling.  I was kind of intrigued with this one.  Nice floral notes on the nose, crisp and clean on the palate with hints of grapefruit.  It's bright and minerally and a really nice surprise.  Not being a huge Chardonnay fan, I don't have much in the way of notes, but I can say that the 2009 Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay had a nice mouth feel without being overly oaked.  The last of the whites was the 2009 Barrel Reserve Chardonnay.  This one had a little more oak but the fruit was still predominate.  Nicely balanced with a touch of mineral on the finish.

The red line-up started with the 2009 Proprietary Red.  A Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, it had soft tannins and nice cherry notes.  The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon showed nice fruit on the nose but is still drinking young.  It's spicy with firm tannins, and  I'd like to try it again in a year.  Finally, we tried the NV Vintner's Red.  Another Bordeaux blend, this one 51% Cab Sauv, it has a little more body than the Proprietary Red but it also has .6 to .8% RS.  Dark fruit characteristics and nicely balanced.

All in all, the wines are pretty solid and we look forward to seeing what they do in the future.

The Sweetheart of the Cellar

My introduction to Gewurztraminer occurred on a trip to San Francisco back in the late 80's.  I was going to a conference and my good friend Patti-Jo asked if I wanted company.  Hell yeah!!  While I had survived this meeting a couple of times before, the thought of having some relief from a week with 10,000 dietitians was awesome!

The time we had for sightseeing was limited to a couple of days before and after the conference and a few hours during the week.  We made a list of the must-see's and crammed as much as we could into the time we had.  There was Lombard Street, Fisherman's Warf, Muir Woods, the bobcat, the naked guy in Golden Gate Park, and of course, a day trip to wine country.  We visited Sebastiani Vineyards and Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma before heading up into Napa.  I think the only stops we made there were   Mondavi, just to smell the roses (quite literally), and a convenience store in Healdsburg before  heading back to the city and the dreaded dietitians.  Despite the few stops, we each brought home a case - a story my dad still loves to tell!

Twenty-five years later, I still vividly remember two of the wines we tasted.  Both from Sebastiani, the first was a Cherryblock Cabernet Sauvignon, now their flagship wine, the one that they feel best expresses their terrior; the second was a Gewurztraminer they called "Kellerschatz".  From German, it translates to "cellar treasure" but they referred to it as the "sweetheart of the cellar".  

Which brings me to this:  I have a love-hate relationship with Gewurztraminer.  It's floral and it's spicy and if those two components are not in the right proportion for me, I can't handle it but, when it's right, it's like Bloomer Creek 2008 Tanzen Dame Second Harvest Vintner's Select Gewurztraminer.

It is a straw yellow color, with honey notes and the perfect balance of fruit and spice.  Beautifully soft on the palate, this wine is delicate and lovely and everything a Gewurz should be - to me, anyway.  

Sometimes, Time Really IS on Your Side

"What shall I open, Dear"?  That's usually the question of the night but this time, it was posed mid-morning.  "I was thinking a Leidenfrost", my PIC announced.  Hmmm.....but would we have enough time to decant it to drink tonight?  Of course, if it's not ready, we could always have it tomorrow....

Ah, Leidenfrost.  Although founded in 1990, Leidenfrost is no newcomer to the FLX wine scene.  Located on the southeastern shore of Seneca Lake,  the Leidenfrost family has grown grapes and produced wine in Hector, NY since 1947.  This is not a stop we always make when we are in the region as we seem to have a strange relationship with the wines.  Planning is not one of our sterling qualities and we've found that you have to plan ahead for some of these gems.  Having said that, I must share our first experience with them.

About five or six years ago, we were traveling through the region with friends from California.  To add to our wine tasting experience, they had the idea to do a quasi-horizontal Pinot Noir tasting.  They brought two bottles with them - one from Oregon and one from California -  to try along side of a FLX Pinot.  We had dinner at Stonecat and the restaurant staff suggested a Leidenfrost Pinot to battle it out with the others.  We ordered our meals, and with twelve wine glasses on the table, we began. 

As expected, all of the wines evolved in the glass over time but could a FLX wine really hold up to the west coast big boys?  Let me tell you - the Leidenfrost  showed beautifully compared to the others.  I'd be lying to say that I remember which one was my favorite (crap - I'd be lying to say that I remember the other two wines) but we were so impressed with the Leidenfrost, we were there the next day for a tasting and to pick up a couple of bottles.

Over the years, we have found that the wines can be kind of tough to drink; sometimes they seem unapproachable because they take forever to open up.  We asked John Leidenfrost about that one day and he attributed it to the fact that the wine doesn't see any air.  From this, we learned to be patient and hold John's wines and when we do open them, we decant, decant, decant! 

Time has been this wine's friend.  This Leidenfrost 2004 Cab Franc went into the decanter late in the morning and wasn't poured for about five hours.  It's bursting with cherry and has silky tannins - it's like a chocolate-covered cherry.  Too bad we don't have more and...it was gone before dinner hit the table.